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    Building a Concrete Block Retaining Wall

    The Complete How To Guide to Building a Concrete Block Retaining Wall

    Before you begin

    A retaining wall is a great way to improve the look of your lawn and garden. It can be a beautiful feature as well as the perfect way to create a flat lawn on a sloping section.

    However, because retaining walls have an important job to do, we advise you to call in an expert for any wall over 900mm high.

    The Law

    Before you start any landscaping or building project, it’s important you make sure the finished job will comply with the building code and council regulations. For full information on the regulations applying to your area, consult with your local council.

    Let’s Make a Plan

    Do a scale drawing of the area that you want to retain. From that, estimate the quantities you need. Remember some extra materials will be required for cutting, depending on the size and shape of the area.

    Tools you'll need

    • Tape measure
    • Pencil
    • Stakes & stringline
    • Spirit level
    • Spade
    • Shovel
    • Hammer
    • Masonry Chisel
    • Safety glasses
    • Gloves
    • Compactor
    • Wheelbarrow

    Materials

    Buy all your retaining wall blocks from one place and from the same batch if possible, to avoid differences in colour that can result from different batches. Blocks may also display a “whitening” effect otherwise known as efflorescence. This is a characteristic of many masonry products and does diminish over time.

    If you can’t buy all blocks from one batch, mix the units up before laying. If you have any trouble working out the quantities of the blocks you need, PlaceMakers offers a free estimation service.

    Like any building job, you’ve got to get the foundations right. A large retaining wall will require large volumes of materials.

    There are three main materials: retaining wall blocks, base course material & drainage aggregate.

    Range and Styles

    Firth retaining wall blocks feature a unique rear lip to eliminate guesswork, speed installation and deliver a uniform setback.

    Ezi Wall® is a two-piece system with a split face texture that gives great design flexibility.

    Ezi Wall Block 160/120 x 140 x 125mm, weight 5.5kg
    Ezi Wall Capper 160/120 x 140 x 125mm, weight 5.5kg
    Available in colour: Rockface, Volcanic Ash & Onyx

    Sedona Stone® has straight & bevelled keycut face texture that gives great design flexibility.

    Sedona Stone 200 x 135 x 100mm, weight 5.4kg
    Available in colour: Rockface

    Garden Wall® has straight & bevelled, split face that enables construction of inside curves, outside curves & straight walls.

    Garden Wall 300 x 230/215 x 100mm, weight 13kg
    Available in colour: Rockface

    Country Manor® has keycut face texture that enables construction of inside curves, outside curves & straight walls.

    Small Unit 100/150 x 250 x 150mm, weight 11kg
    Medium Unit 250/300 x 250 x 150mm, weight 18kg
    Large Unit 350/400 x 250 x 150mm, weight 27kg
    Capping Unit 250/300 x 280 x 75mm, weight 12kg
    Available in colour: Rockface

    Getting Started

    Excavate

    Dig out the area behind where your wall will go to allow for backfill. Then dig a trench along the line of your wall’s planned base to the width and depth shown in the table (see Fig.1 below).

    System Width Depth required Maximum height in meters
    Ezi Wall® 300mm 150mm 0.5M
    Sedona Stone® 300mm 150mm 0.5M
    Garden Wall® 450mm 150mm 0.7M
    Country Manor® 550mm 200mm 0.65M near vertical
    Country Manor® 550mm 200mm 0.95M 9.5° batter
    Country Manor® 550mm 200mm > 1.0M specific design

    Preparing a Level Base

    Compact the soil in the base of your trench. Then add compactable base course (fine gravel) to the trench and compact until firm and level (for Firth Ezi Wall® / Sedona Stone® /Garden Wall®) to a depth of 150mm. For Country Manor a depth of 200mm is required. Check this both ways with a level and stringline to make sure your wall will be built on a good foundation (see Fig.2).

    The First Layer

    Getting the first layer perfectly level is critical to the accuracy of your wall. For Sedona and Garden Wall, chisel the locator lips off the blocks for the first layer prior to laying. Place the first layer of blocks on the prepared base, making sure that each block is in full contact with the base course and level from side to side and front to back. Stringline the back of the first layer to verify straightness. On sloping sites always start from the lowest point and work upwards (see Fig.3).

    Preparing Drainage

    If the wall is going to be over 3 layers, place a drainage coil (65 or 100mm diameter) behind the first “above ground” layer of the wall. Extend the coil away from the wall to ensure good drainage. Connect the coil to the nearest silt trap.

    Laying & Backfilling

    Make sure the top of each layer of blocks is perfectly level and free of aggregate and soil before laying the next layer of blocks. Lay subsequent layers of blocks by pulling each unit forward so that the rear lip engages with the blocks below. Each unit should be offset by half a unit below to maintain a “running bond” pattern.

    As each layer is finished, backfill with free drainage aggregate extending out 150mm for Eziwall/Sedona Stone and Garden Wall. 300mm for Country Manor and compact. Do not use topsoil or clay material as backfill. As you build your wall, fill the cavity behind it. Ensure all cavities within each unit and gaps between are filled with free drainage aggregate. Backfilling and compaction should be carried out in 150mm to 200mm layers (see Fig.4).

    Final Touches

    Once your wall reaches the desired height, use the compactor to f irmly compact and fill behind the wall. Do not use the compactor on the wall itself. If using Ezi Wall®, affix the capping units to the top of the wall using a building adhesive. If using Country Manor® use the capping block and pins. If you plan to have a garden level with the top of your wall, backfill and compact to below the desired depth of your bed then add topsoil to the wall level (see Fig.5).

    This article has been produced with proper care, however the advice offered within is general in nature. PlaceMakers is not responsible for the application of the advice offered and takes no responsibility for the accuracy or completeness of it. PlaceMakers will also not be liable for any consequential loss howsoever arising from the use of goods sold, nor for any loss caused by defective or inadequate structures in which goods are incorporated.

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